Anyone buy a used car before?
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LVLAKERFAN
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 1:55 pm    Post subject:

Be very careful with autotrader, if it sounds too good to be true, it probablby is. A lot of scams going on autotrader, I know they are cracking down on them, but don't fall for no stupid tricks.

I had one dude trying to sell me a 2001 celica, pimped out for 5 grand.
The guy says that the car is in a crate in Atlanta and that he will pay for the shipping and the reason the price was so low is because he had to move to portugal for work.

Said a bunch of crab about paypal or western union, I cant' remember, I wasn't paying any attention.

Anyways be careful.
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LVLAKERFAN
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 1:57 pm    Post subject:

^^

Actually this was a similar story.

http://msnbc.msn.com/id/3078503/

I just remember something about an escrow acct he was mentioning.
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tortuga
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 2:28 pm    Post subject:

angrypuppy wrote:
Good points, but remember that Carfax does not necessarily have the complete accident or flood history of the car. From what I recall, not only are there gaps (particularly by state), but some con artists have used loop holes to "cleanse" the history of flood cars.


Yea. That's true. You can't completely trust Carfax since it doesn't really tell you everything.

LVLAKERFAN wrote:
Be very careful with autotrader, if it sounds too good to be true, it probablby is. A lot of scams going on autotrader, I know they are cracking down on them, but don't fall for no stupid tricks.

I had one dude trying to sell me a 2001 celica, pimped out for 5 grand.
The guy says that the car is in a crate in Atlanta and that he will pay for the shipping and the reason the price was so low is because he had to move to portugal for work.

Said a bunch of crab about paypal or western union, I cant' remember, I wasn't paying any attention.

Anyways be careful.


LOL They all seem to use that same old tactic. Their asking prices are way too good to be true. Also, they're always out of the country because of job or something and they need to sell the car ASAP. And they always offer some buyer protection thing, which is all BS. Not to mention they say they'll pay for the shipping. Again, too good to be true. Also, they ask that you send the money through Western Union only.

I've gone through it myself and it cracks me up everytime I see these kinds of ads. Nowadays, when I get bored, I play around with them pretending to be a potential buyer.

BTW, it's not just autotrader. I've seen one on eBay and also TONS of them on craigslist. But I guess I gotta give little props for that one dude who put the ad on eBay since he probably had to pay fees for that. He almost got me with all those fake eBay emails with the eBay logo and everything.
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Mike@LG
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 9:56 pm    Post subject:

Money$hot! wrote:
MR2, nice choice. A real sports car and not just a "sporty" car. A critical factor in choosing an MR2. You must get model year 1993-1995. Skip the 1991-1992 models completely. Reason being the first two model years had the original rear-suspension geometry that every car magazine referred to as "scary" in some way. Simply put the back-end would break away in hard cornering at the most unpredictable moments. We're talking about seasoned auto journalists driving too, not just Joe "no heel-toe" Schmoes. This is the kind of unpredictable handling that could kill a person. After 1993 Toyota completely revised the rear suspension geometry to allievate that problem and added passenger side airbags. From '93-'95 the MR2 only got better & better with upgraded airconditioning, better aerodynamics, and in '95 the N/A model got standard power everything. It's a nice car.

Edmunds prices a 2005 MR2 Base in O.C. for less than $4k if bought at a dealer w/ 150k miles on it (semi-high mileage). So you'll have to bargain a little.

http://www.edmunds.com/used/1995/toyota/mr2/4314/options.html?tmvaction=vdpresult

If you pull a Carfax report, you'll get unlimited free Carfax reports for 30 days, so you can check several cars. Get one, it's worth the $25 bux.

Here are a couple of listings, not exact, but close...
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=202406120&dealer_id=1236396&car_year=1994&mod_bookmark_id=null&search_type=both&make=TOYOTA&transmission=&distance=100&model=MR2&address=92886&make2=sel_one&certified=&advanced=y&max_mileage=&max_price=8000&bkms=1149280241593&min_price=1&end_year=1995&color=&start_year=1993&drive=&isp=y&engine=&doors=&fuel=&lang=en&cardist=54

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=202307029&dealer_id=103062&car_year=1993&mod_bookmark_id=null&search_type=both&make=TOYOTA&transmission=&distance=100&model=MR2&address=92886&make2=sel_one&certified=&advanced=y&max_mileage=&max_price=8000&bkms=1149280241593&min_price=1&end_year=1995&color=&start_year=1993&drive=&isp=y&engine=&doors=&fuel=&lang=en&cardist=19


Well aware of the differences between the '91 and '93. To be honest, I'm not as concerned about bring prone to sudden oversteer. I'm not that kind of driver and have a good understanding of how MR cars react.

Believe me, I'd prefer a '93-'95, but it's not worth the extra $1500 IMHO.

I could actually add a LSD, motor swap from the Celica GTS, complete new rear clip, clutch, tune up, etc. for about $4k if I choose.
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Money$hot!
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 10:27 pm    Post subject:

Mike@LG wrote:
Money$hot! wrote:
MR2, nice choice. A real sports car and not just a "sporty" car. A critical factor in choosing an MR2. You must get model year 1993-1995. Skip the 1991-1992 models completely. Reason being the first two model years had the original rear-suspension geometry that every car magazine referred to as "scary" in some way. Simply put the back-end would break away in hard cornering at the most unpredictable moments. We're talking about seasoned auto journalists driving too, not just Joe "no heel-toe" Schmoes. This is the kind of unpredictable handling that could kill a person. After 1993 Toyota completely revised the rear suspension geometry to allievate that problem and added passenger side airbags. From '93-'95 the MR2 only got better & better with upgraded airconditioning, better aerodynamics, and in '95 the N/A model got standard power everything. It's a nice car.

Edmunds prices a 2005 MR2 Base in O.C. for less than $4k if bought at a dealer w/ 150k miles on it (semi-high mileage). So you'll have to bargain a little.

http://www.edmunds.com/used/1995/toyota/mr2/4314/options.html?tmvaction=vdpresult

If you pull a Carfax report, you'll get unlimited free Carfax reports for 30 days, so you can check several cars. Get one, it's worth the $25 bux.

Here are a couple of listings, not exact, but close...
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=202406120&dealer_id=1236396&car_year=1994&mod_bookmark_id=null&search_type=both&make=TOYOTA&transmission=&distance=100&model=MR2&address=92886&make2=sel_one&certified=&advanced=y&max_mileage=&max_price=8000&bkms=1149280241593&min_price=1&end_year=1995&color=&start_year=1993&drive=&isp=y&engine=&doors=&fuel=&lang=en&cardist=54

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=202307029&dealer_id=103062&car_year=1993&mod_bookmark_id=null&search_type=both&make=TOYOTA&transmission=&distance=100&model=MR2&address=92886&make2=sel_one&certified=&advanced=y&max_mileage=&max_price=8000&bkms=1149280241593&min_price=1&end_year=1995&color=&start_year=1993&drive=&isp=y&engine=&doors=&fuel=&lang=en&cardist=19


Well aware of the differences between the '91 and '93. To be honest, I'm not as concerned about bring prone to sudden oversteer. I'm not that kind of driver and have a good understanding of how MR cars react.

Believe me, I'd prefer a '93-'95, but it's not worth the extra $1500 IMHO.

I could actually add a LSD, motor swap from the Celica GTS, complete new rear clip, clutch, tune up, etc. for about $4k if I choose.


As GI Joe says "Knowing is half the battle". The oversteer wasn't the issue with the cars it was how abruptly and inconsistently they broke loose from said oversteer. A car shouldn't surprise the driver that way. From what I remember reading the loss of adhesion never seemed to be at the same point in the cars attitude change in the pre-93 models. Anyhow, it's a great car so best of luck with the search. Hope you find a nice one.
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Mike@LG
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2006 10:52 pm    Post subject:

^It's just when the rear suspension compressed, the rear wheels would start to toe-out, which led to the abrupt oversteer/spin. Basically, don't accelerate hard on tight turns.

Wasn't planning on it anyway.
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uberzev
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2006 2:10 am    Post subject:

you guys really need to learn how to make links that don't mess up the page width.
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Mike@LG
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2006 3:14 pm    Post subject:

Mike@LG wrote:
link

That is more of what I had in mind.

Yes that is the car I've loved for nearly a decade.

Believe me, I don't want turbo. I want N/A, T-Top, and a mid engine rear drive setup, stick.

That car is the best way for me to get there. There are so many things I could do later on to that car (I plan to keep it for a very long time).

I'd appreciate feedback on that listing.


Checked out the car myself. Found some rust on the rear brake area and on the driver door hinge. Couldn't find anything elsewhere. Car had documentation for the previous 5 years, all necessary maintenance done. Only upcoming things would be rear brake pads and rear tires.

Checked the mileage, no signs of fixing the odometer. I couldn't believe how clean it was.

Owner said previous potential buyers brought their own mechanic and said that under the car, the tranny case is a bit damp.

I can email the pictures I have.

There's another Mr2, 118,000 miles. Couldn't find any rust anywhere. Owner said he's had it for 2 months, 500 miles total, mid-life crisis car. Met him at the park to see the car. Couldn't find anything. Said he bought it off of a Toyota dealership and his mechanic just said the rear brake rotors needed to be replaced. They were. $1k less.
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